In recent weeks, the lack of racial diversity in the modeling world has been the talk of the fashion community and I couldn't be happier. It's disgusting to think that we've actually gone backward in the last ten years when it comes to representing women of color on high fashion runways and in the pages and advertisements of women's magazines, but we have. Despite the fact that 30% of the US population is not white, there's a black man running for president, and black women spend more than $20 billion per year on apparel, there's a stunning absence of non-white faces in the modeling world.

Why does this matter?
First, the fashion industry sets the standards for beauty, and by not choosing non-white faces to represent their brand and style, the message they're sending is that only white women meet their standards of beauty. Girls and women are constantly reminded that they don't like "right" when they flip through magazines and rarely come across a woman who looks like them.
Second, high fashion is and has always been an elite pursuit, limited to those with the financial means to afford extremely expensive clothing and accessories, and the designers, marketers and journalists who gained access to this elite world in order to study and understand it. Models are the public face of the industry and by only using white models, it further reinforces the message that the fashion world (as producers and consumers) is closed to non-whites.
Of course, when the members of the fashion industry are questioned about the lack of non-white models, they play the blame game and insist that it's someone else: the casting directors, the magazine editors, the modeling agency... it's always someone else's fault that so few brands have non-white models representing their brand.
The question arises whether it all boils down to racism. At a recent debate on the subject among fashion insiders at the New York Public Library, one magazine editor recounted that while working on a story for Vibe magazine, Manolo Blahnik refused to loan the magazine shoes for a shoot (a very common practice among magazines). It took a personal call from supermodel Iman to Manolo himself to get the shoes. There are many stories of designers who have asked modeling agencies only to send them Caucasian girls, or designers who send models back to agencies after realizing they were given a non-white model. The default category for models is "general market," which means Caucasian or Caucasian-looking. Unless a brand specifies "African-American," "Asian," or "Latina," they're only going to get headshots of white girls. There's no reason why general market equals white, but a brand would have to specifically request a non-white model for them to be eligible for the job.
I think racism definitely plays a big role in the lack of non-white models, but it's also a systematic racism which affects the whole industry. Non-whites are under-represented at every level of the fashion hierarchy, and I think that when magazines, fashion brands, casting companies and modeling agencies begin to hire more non-whites, we're going to see more representation of non-white faces on their pages and runways.
But this doesn't explain why we had more non-white models 10 and 15 years ago than we do today. The only explanation I can come up with is that the fashion industry has a problem conflating race with trends. The New York Times article points out that "the current taste in models is for blank-faced androids who don't offer much competition to the clothes." I think it's a pretty weak argument to say that a woman of color would inevitably "compete with the clothes." 15 years ago when the trend was for more individualistic, fierce-looking models, there was far greater representation of women of color. This obviously plays into racial stereotypes, but it also suggests that the industry can't seem to separate the color of a model's skin from her "look," and that they fear that by using non-white models, the focus will be on the model's skin above all else.
The message to consumers is that, if you're lucky, your race or ethnicity will be the trend this season, but if not, don't expect us to tell you you're beautiful or included in this industry.